Does anything quite prepare you for an adventure in Africa; quite
simply, nothing can, as my experience on Acacia’s overland South West
Safari would lead me to discover. Our tour through Southern Africa
began in Zambia and on arrival into Livingstone we were transferred to
our accommodation on the banks of the Zambezi River, a few miles
upstream from the Victoria Falls. Arriving in plenty of time before the
tour began I made the most of the opportunities available in the area –
this being one of Africa’s adventure capitals offering a range of
activities, from bungee jumping to sunset cruising.
Our first day was spent relaxing from a long flight on the banks of the
Zambezi. Watching the glorious sunset and serene African surroundings
with a “sun downer” was welcome respite as the next morning we had to
be up early for our first adventure – white water rafting down the
Zambezi River. The fourth largest river system in Africa after the
Nile, Zaire and Niger Rivers, the Zambezi runs through six countries on
its journey from central Africa to the Indian Ocean. All of these
claims however, must come second to its notoriety as one of the wildest
white water rafting runs in the world; its long, violent (grade 4 – 5)
rapids and steep gradients providing a challenge for even the most
enthusiastic adventurer. Our journey took us through 23 rapids in
total, some of which were absolute monsters and we gulped down our fair
share of the river on the way, but the challenge didn’t end there as we
then had to climb out of the gorge itself. Back at camp we ran through
the day’s events once again and rediscovered our sense of adventure –
our white water rafting excursion rewound and played back on film.
Next on the list was the Victoria Falls. This world-renowned “Smoke
that thunders” took my breath away – nearly a mile wide and 100 metres
deep, with walking paths so near the edge you can lean over and look
into the gorge itself. Coming face to face with one of nature’s most
astounding sights was spell bounding; the enormity of staring at the
largest falling curtain of water on earth becoming clear, as the spray
soaked us all completely to the skin.
From the falls we crossed the Livingstone Bridge and spent the rest of
the day in Zimbabwe checking out Victoria Falls town. Showing another
side to this diverse continent Zimbabwe was very different to
Livingstone despite its proximity. We found the people a little more
demanding when it came to tourists, but the shopping experience was
pure excitement. The market place was a hive of activity and not one
for the faint hearted, however, with a little time and patience and a
friendly smile for our newly made ‘friends’ there were many bargains to
be had. After bartering and staking claim to numerous souvenirs we were
ready to indulge in our traditional ‘Boma’ dinner – a combination of
crocodile, kudu and warthog making for a culinary feast; traditional
dancers and drums providing an atmospheric ambience before heading back
to Zambia.
It was another early rise the following morning allowing us plenty of
time to tackle our next challenge – the gorge swing. Often put forward
as an alternative to those who can’t face the bungee jump, gorge
swinging is a no less death-defying feat. Enjoying a longer freefall
than the bungee, the scare is lessened by being attached around your
upper body rather than dangling by your feet – a little comfort and
peace of mind before jumping off into the abyss. My friend and I
decided that we would jump tandem – thinking that if we went together
it would be less scary. Our ingenious idea didn’t quite go according to
plan, our combined weight making us swing still further. Travelling at
what seemed like nearly 100 miles an hour this was more adrenalinee
pumping and scarier than if we had done it alone!
Challenges aside, it’s still the traditional safari experience that
draws travellers to Africa in their hordes, and we were no different.
Our first wildlife encounter would take us overland, a short distance
to Botswana into Chobe National Park. Boasting one of the greatest
concentrations of elephants in the African continent (the current count
is estimated at over 120,000), the park is also home to hippos,
baboons, hyenas, lion, leopard, antelope and varied birdlife - but it’s
not simply the abundant wildlife, which makes the park worth visiting
as the beauty and splendour of the area also ensure this a worthwhile
trip. The amazing variety of habitats, which range from floodplains,
through woodlands of baobab, mopane and acacia trees, to verdant
grasslands and thickets, bordering the Chobe River, all combine to give
a real essence of Africa. The highlight of the safari was the afternoon
‘Fish Eagle’ boat cruise on the Chobe River itself where we watched a
herd of elephants wrestling in the water, these huge beasts performing
ballet type maneuvers with nearby hippo and crocodile trying their best
to avoid the melee.
Our next stop was the dusty outback town of Maun, the gateway to the
Okavango Delta. Taking a light air craft flight over the delta we were
able to get a birds eye view of the lagoons, cannels and reed covered
islands, which stretch for 1000's of square kilometers – actually up to
16,000 square kilometers. The following day we trekked into the
Okavango itself passing through the villages of the indigenous tribal
people – a brief insight into local culture before our river journey by
traditional dug out canoe (known as a 'makoro'). After being poled
through the reed-covered islands by our local guide we reached our next
destination – a wilderness camp deep in the swaying grasses of the
Okavango Delta. Truly relaxing and off the beaten track here we had a
chance to kick back, relax and dip into the natural and refreshing
waters – a second to none experience for those who want to delve into
the heart of Africa.
A further highlight of island camping in the delta was seeing the
wildlife close up –especially at night, our proximity to the natural
world becoming clear as the noises came closer to our tents. The
animals presence made for a dramatic walking safari the following
morning as we ventured out on foot to track the wildlife that had
visited camp that night – trekking through the Okavango meeting buffalo
and giraffe, with nothing but the experience of our guide between us
and the possibility of danger.
Back on the road trip across Botswana we had the opportunity of meeting
the Kalahari Bushman – a hunter-gatherer tribe thought to be the
descendents of the first inhabitants of South Africa, with records
dating back 30,000 years. The harsh conditions which they contend with
have been amplified by the encroachment of modern civilization with its
huge cities, large farms, and grazing cattle – many of them being
driven off their native lands to make room for mining and farming
operations. However, there is some hope in tourism, with the industry
providing economic assistance through tours such as those devised by
Acacia, ensuring the tribe keep their land, preserve their culture and
continue their historical survival.
Leaving Botswana we crossed into Namibia - our first port of call
being, Etosha National Park. Covering an area of 22,270 square
kilometres, the park is home to 114 mammal species, 340 bird species,
110 reptile species, 16 amphibian species and, surprisingly, one
species of fish. Its name stems from the massive mineral pan that
dominates the area – ‘Etosha’ meaning ‘great white place’.
Our game drive was off to an impressive start as immediately after we
passed through the gates we were greeted by a pride of lions. We were
also lucky enough to see elephants, leopards, rhinos, giraffes,
springboks and a multitude of other animals and birds, but the most
memorable experience was watching four lionesses stalk their pray for
over two hours before taking a young gemsbok. Once the lionesses made
their kill two large male lions and four bouncing cubs came out to feed
– another incredible wildlife sighting. Our group stayed for two-nights
in the park, the campsites seeming more like mini resorts with full
bar, restaurant and swimming pool facilities available, however the
highlight has to be the flood lit waterholes that come to light after
dark – offering incredible opportunities for late night wildlife
viewing, with animals such as elephant and rhino coming to the waters
edge to drink.
Our next stop was Swakopmund, Namibia’s only seaside resort – a great
place in which to combine relaxation and adventurous pursuits. On
arrival our group opted for quad bike desert driving, a trip which
incorporated the most amazing vista as we watched the sun setting over
the Atlantic Ocean from the top of a massive sand dune.
Swakopmund itself, is yet another adventure capital visited on the
South West Safari and we were ready to pack in more than one experience
on our second day here, starting with sand boarding – an adrenaline
sport that is clearly nothing like snowboarding, especially after a few
mouthfuls of sand. Then, setting our sights on the skies my friend and
I decided on tandem sky-diving, our second optional activity in the
adventure capital. After a training, safety briefing and equipment
check we flew up to 10,000 feet and jumped out for a 30 second free
fall rush before pulling the parachute and coasting down through the
skies – impressive views of the Atlantic Ocean on one side and the
massive sand dunes of Namibia on the other. A first time parachutist
this definitely has to be judged as one of the more addictive adventure
pursuits, as I am now ready to do a thousand more. We were thoroughly
rewarded for our efforts on our return to the camp with a South African
Bar-b-que or traditional Brai cooked up by the rest of the group – just
one of the delicious meals on a tour where we ate like kings and queens.
Leaving the coast we traveled south and inland to the Namib Naukluft
National Park. The beauty of Namibia‘s dunes was unveiled on desert
walks – a slower paced activity with our guides unearthing the
inhabitants of this semi-arid land. The tiniest shift of sand could
lead to a spider burying in a hole, or faint tracks might provide
insight on the animals of the night, out hunting for their next meal.
The continually shifting sand dunes also provided pause for thought
with the enormity of the fact that right where we were standing could
soon be covered by ocean. However, no trip through the Sossusvlei
region of the Namib-Naukuluft National Park would be complete without a
dawn hike up ‘dune 45’ – one of Namibia’s highest sand dunes at around
300 metres – a sunrise vista that is as dramatic, as it is
awe-inspiring.
Heading south once again the tour continued to Fish River Canyon, a
spectacular wilderness area with equally astounding game viewing and
the penultimate Namibian highlight before we crossed over into South
Africa. The second largest in world, the canyon extends for 100 miles
north to south along the Orange River in Southern Namibia, reaching
widths of 17 miles (27 km) and depths of 1800 feet (550 m). Movements
in the earths crust created the canyon, estimated to have formed around
500 million years ago: a natural catastrophe, which has led to one of
Africa’s most unique and barren landscapes.
Cosmopolitan Cape Town was the last stop on the South West Safari, but
we decided to extend our visit here to make the most of our stay in
what has been described as one of the greatest cities in the world –
Acacia’s optional extended city and short stay tours making this a
simple and hassle free add on to any overland adventure. The famous
Stellenbosch Wineries and the Cape of Good Hope are only a short
distance away from the city and the vibrant mix of bars, restaurants
and art galleries are best viewed with plenty of time to spare.
The only question left to ask is where will I go next after such an
extensive tour of Africa? This wondrous continent deserves many more
holidays, so I am now planning my next trip, again travelling with
Acacia Adventure Holidays, but this time to East Africa. I can only
hope that it is as memorable as the first.
I travelled on the 19-day South West Safari with Acacia Africa – www.acacia-africa.com
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